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THE GREEN-HOUSE 



WINTER GARDEN, 



MANUAL FOR THE AMATEUR 



A LIST OF SUITABLE PLAKTS AKD THEIR 
MODE OF CULTURE. 



IT-. E. FIELD. 

'f 



With a PREFACE by W. C. BRYANT. 



NEW YORK: 
G. P. PUTNAM & SON, 661 BROADWAY, 






Entebeb according to Act of Congress, in the year 1869, by G. P. 
PUTNAM & SON, in the District Court of the United States, 
for the Southern District of New York." 




INDEX 



ILLUSTRATIONS. 

PAOK. 

Fig. 1 2 

« 2 16 

«« 3 19 

•« 5 28 



CONTENTS. 

FAQE. 

Preface 7 

Introduction 11 

Green-houses (Aspect of ) 17 

Diseases of Plants 35 

Flower Sliows 61 

Frames and Pits 25 

General Management of Green-houses 44 

Green-honse as a Winter Garden 17 

Method of Heating 23 

Potting-House 24 

Potting 32 

Soils and Composts 29 

Sowing Seeds 42 

Striking Cuttings 39 

Summer Occupation of the Green-house 50 

Summer Station 48 

Watering 37 

List of Plants 53 

Acacia 63 

Azalea Indica 64 

Cactus 54 

Calceolaria 55 

Camellia 56 



VI, 

PAGE. 

Chorozema 58 

Chrysanthemum ' 58 

Cineraria 59 

Correa 61 

CoroniUa 62 

Cytisus 63 

Daphne 63 

Diosma 64 

Epacris 64 

Geranium 66 

Heaths 67 

Jasmin 68 

Kennedya 68 

Magnolia 69 

Mignonette 70 

Myrtle 71 

Orange 71 

" Otaheite 72 

Pimelia 72 

Polygala 73 

Primula 73 

Rose 75 

Sollya 76 

Veronica 76 

Bulbous Rooted Plants 77 

Amaryllis 77 

Cyclamen 78 

Oxalis 79 

Hyacinths, Tulips, &c 79 

LHy of the Valley 80 

Bedding Plants 80 

Annuals for the Green-house in Summer 83 

Balsams 83 

Martynia Fragrans 84 

Cockscomb and Amaranthus 84 

. Spomeas 85 

Achimenes and Gloxinia 85 



PREFACE 



The poet, Cowpee, says — 

"WTio loves a garden, loves a green-house too." 

which is certainly true so far as this, that many whose atten- 
tion, if they lived in the country, would be turned to the 
careful cultivation of a garden, are obliged, by living in towns, 
to content themselves with a green-house on an humble scale, 
tended principally by their own care. The number of this 
class is increasing rapidly in our own country, and, in fact, is 
becoming more numerous everywhere else in the civilized 
world. Towns are growing larger and more compact, and the 
possession of a spot of cultivated land imder the open sky, 
upon which the rains fall and the dews gather, is gradually 
becoming the lot of fewer and fewer of the human race. Yet, 
the fondness for cultivating plants, supplying them with 
nourishment, watching their growth, removing the causes 
which obstruct it, and increasing their number by skilful propa- 
gation, is a feeling so natural that it may be called instinctive. 
Plants minister so essentially to our comfort — they are so 
necessary in fact to our existence — they so gratify the love for 
beauty of form and color, and they show so many striking and 
curious adaptations, in their structure and properties, to the 
1* 



8 THE GREEN-HOUSE AS A WINTER GARDEN. 

ends they answer, that it is not to be wondered at that their 
cultivation should become a passion with many. 

To frame a treatise which shall instruct the increasing class 
to which we have referred, how to indulge this taste at a mode- 
rate expense, and b}^ the simplest and most economical as well 
as most successful methods, has been the aim of the author of 
this little work. It is intended for those whose means or 
whose desires lead them to content themselves with a green- 
house on a small scale, to which they give their personal atten- 
tion. For those who have spacious conservatories imder the 
charge of a professional gardener, works of a more elaborate 
character are doubtless the best. Those, however, contain 
much that is only applicable to green-houses on an extensive 
scale, kept in order at considerable cost. They require more 
study and pains than many have time to bestow, and bewilder 
the uninitiated by the multitude and prolixity of their direc- 
tions. Wliat a person, much occupied with other pursuits, 
yet led by a strong inclination to that kind of culture, wants, 
is a set of plain and precise instructions which can be mastered 
without any great expense of time, and which can be easily 
and cheaply applied. Those who require more than this can 
find it in the more voluminous treatises on green-house cultiva- 
tion. Those who want only this will find it here. 

I was acquainted with the author of this work when he had 
a little green-house in England which he tended with great 
ingenuity and success, and without much apparent encroach- 
ment upon the time devoted to business and to reading, taking 
the prizes at the horticultural exhibitions of his neighborhood 
with a frequency which might have been a little annoying to 



the other members of the society by which the prizes were 
given. He had often thought of putting his experience in this 
department of horticulture into the shape of a treatise for 
publication. I encouraged him in this, partly for a personal 
reason, inasmuch as there was on my premises at Roslyn, on 
Long Island, a little green-house under the care of one who 
needed just such a plain and succinct hand-book of directions. 

This is not an abridgment of any larger work ; nor a com- 
pilation from other treatises, but a description of methods 
approved by the author's own experience, and therefore to be 
followed with the greater confidence of success. There are, it 
is true, occasional improvements made in the treatment of 
plants in green-houses, but the essential principles of that 
branch of culture remain the same, the principal changes con- 
sisting in the introduction of new plants. In this respect the 
caprices of fashion are often as marked as in the head dresses 
of women, or in other parts of the female costume. A natural- 
ist introduces a pretty exotic from some tropical climate, and 
it is straightway taken into favor and becomes the reigning 
belle of the season. After a while, however, it takes its place 
among the crowd of plants from which a choice is to be made, 
or, perhaps, becomes altogether neglected, while the old 
favorites, familiar to successive generations of men, are rein- 
stated in the place of honor which they formerly held. 

It is, however, one of the advantages of the green-house 
that it makes us acquainted with the vegetation of countries 
which we are never to see, and with the structures of plants 
diiferent from anything to which we are accustomed in our 
own climate, j^et beautiful, with a strange exotic beauty, and 



10 THE GREEN-HOUSE AS A WINTER GARDEN. 

showing how the supreme intelligence, which presided at the 
birth of all things, knows hoAV to give to the grace of form a 
diversity without limit. I can scarcely help feeling a certain 
degree of pity for the man who has no inclination to become 
somewhat intimately acquainted with a class of existences — the 
individuals of the vegetable world — to which we owe so much 
of our comfort, and without which the world would become 
a bare, unpeopled desert. The green-house brings this knowl- 
edge into our dusty and crowded towns, and reproduces the 
aspect of the tropics in the depth of our northern winters. 
Every little pot of flowers which a poor woman cherishes in 
her humble apartment, and sets to bloom in the sunshine at 
her window, is the beginning of a green-house, and shows how 
general and spontaneous is the taste which this little work 
teaches to gratify in the most successful manner. 



INTRODUCTION. 



Of late years the increase in the number of 
Green-houses in England has been very great, 
owing partly, perhaps, to the reduced price of 
glass, and partly to improved and cheaper methods 
of construction, but mostly to an increased taste for 
flowers, and a desire to possess them, when our 
rude climate does not, unaided, afford them. At 
the same time it must be evident to any one hav- 
ing some knowledge and experience of the subject, 
that very many of these Green-houses present the 
appearance of lamentable failures. 

As I have had many years' experience in the 
management of amateur Green-houses, and my 
success was grounded, first, on reading all the 
books I could find on the subject, then on the 
aid of some skilled cultivators, and lastly, on 



12 THE GREEN-HOUSE AS A WINTER GARDEN. 

working out the results unaided, until remark- 
able success attended my labors, I venture to 
think I can give some assistance to those who 
seek to manage their own Green-houses; especially 
since, as far as I know, no manual such as is here 
offered, confined to the subject in hand, and yet 
embracing all the information necessary to the 
amateur cultivator, is to be found. 

By Green-house, I understand, a house devoted 
to the culture of flowering plants which require 
the smallest degree of artificial heat. Let it not 
therefore be confounded with the cold-house, on 
the one hand, which requires no artificial heat, nor 
with the hot-house, on the other, which requires, 
all the year round, a temperature considerably 
raised ; and above all, not with the vinery or fruit- 
house of any description. 

Then the Green -house proper may be devoted to 
many different purposes, all of which clash more or 
less with each other : it is therefore, in the first 
place, most important to define your purpose; the 
want of this definite purpose being, I believe, a 
principal cause of the common failure spoken of: 
for it must ever be borne in mind, that it is impos- 
sible to cultivate successfully in the same house, 
plants of such different habits that some require to 



INTRODUCTIOX. 13 

rest at the same time that others are in an active 
state. 

The title I have chosen is, "the Green-house as a 
Winter Garden/' and to such purpose alone is the 
present small treatise directed — to produce green 
leaves and flowers in the winter and spring months, 
when we have none in the gardens. And let it be 
understood that I address myself, principally, to the 
amateur managing his own Green-house. It will 
be found, I think, on experience, that a small house, 
so managed, affords much more pleasure and inter- 
est than much grander places, managed, however 
successfully, by a gardener. 

The list of plants treated of is, of course, but a 
small portion of what it might be : I write only 
of what I have myself cultivated, with the results 
stated. It may also be remarked that those I have 
named are mostly of common, well known kinds, 
and such as are easily reared; and surely it is 
better to have a house full of such plants, grow- 
ing and blooming in health and vigor, than the 
newest and choicest varieties, dwindling and with 
scanty bloom. At the same time let every culti- 
vator add to the list from his own experience, 
never losing sight of the object in view, and 
taking care not to introduce plants which will 



14 THE GREEN-HOUSE AS A WINTER GARDEN. 

not accommodate themselves to the treatment pur- 
sued. 

Many shortcomings, no doubt, there are in this 
work ; all I hope to do is to make a step in advance 
of those who have preceded me. 

TArrNTON, January, 1869. 



GREEN-HOUSES. 



I. ASPECT. 

The aspect of a Green-house, for winter culture, 
should be south, or a little east of it, the morning 
sun being more desirable than the afternoon. Cir- 
cumstances may require considerable deviation 
from this, and much may be allowed, without pre- 
venting success, but the greatest amount of sun- 
shine possible must be secured, and all shade of 
buildings or trees should as far as possible be 
avoided. 

The form of the house will be very much deter- 
mined by the situation. The simplest and cheap- 
est is the lean-to house, as shown. Fig. 1, without 
side lights, and many flowers are reared success- 
fully in such houses. Fig. 2 has front lights and 
a short back slope in the roof, the advantage of 
which is, that the inconvenience of sliding roof 
lights is avoided. The lights in the back slope 



18 THE GREEN-HOUSE AS A WINTER GARDEN, 

are hung with hinges, and lifted by an iron arm 
and a cord attached to it passing over a pulley; a 
balance weight may be used with convenience. 
These lights may be left open without admitting 
rain, which can not be done by sliding lights. 

If to this form of house be added a projecting 
frame in front, as shown in Fig. 3, a very complete 
house is obtained, and from my own experience I 
should say the most efficient working-house. The 
projecting frame is open to the house, excepting 
the necessary pillars, so that heat enough circu- 
lates in it. The plants are usually tended from the 
outside, the lights being hinged at top, and so 
easily propped up. In extreme winter weather it 
is possible to do the little work needed from the 
inside. 

The span-roof house. Fig. 4, is, however, con- 
sidered the most perfect form, and no doubt has 
many advantages, though not, I think, so many as 
is commonly supposed. It is no doubt the hand- 
somer house for the display of plants, when other 
places are at hancl in which they may be matured, 
but I do not think it is as good as Fig. 3 for rear- 
ing them. The upper ventilation is obtained by 
opening the side lights of the dormer. 

It is more convenient to have the house of a 



i 



ASPECT. 21 

longer and narrower form than square, as it will be 
found easier to arrange the plants, so that all can 
be reached without removing them ; an inaccessi- 
ble i)lant is apt to be neglected. 

I consider it a settled question, that wooden 
buildings are preferable to metal ; much has been 
written in favor of both. Beware of architectural 
buildings, they are generally designed with a view 
to appearance only, and without any regard to the 
purposes of the building, and however ornamental 
they may be, the practical working of the house is 
too often sacrificed. 

Keep the house as low as possible, as every- 
thing thrives better near the glass. Take care 
that sufficient ventilation is provided; the air 
should circulate freely from front to back of the 
house, but not at the same time from end to end, 
and it should circulate as much as possible over the 
top of the plants, and not round the pots. 

The glass is now put in, in such large panes that 
few laps are needed; when there are any, they should 
never be more than one-eighth of an inch, or they 
will cause the glass to be broken in frosty weather, 
from the moisture which lodges in them being frozen. 

The slope of the roof should be about the angle 
of 45 degrees, as this slope is found to afford the 



22 THE GREEN-IIOUSE AS A WINTER GAEDEN. 

greatest amount of sun-heat when it is most 
needed. 

An outside blind, of a material known as strain- 
ing canvas, is a very valuable addition ; the early 
sunny days in spring, when the outer temperature 
does not admit of much ventilation, being very try- 
ing both to plants and curator. This blind should 
be fixed to a lath at the ridge of the house, and a 
roller, sufficiently heavy to keep it steadily down, 
attached to the other edge, running up and down the 
slope. There are various simple plans by which it 
is easily drawn up and down with a cord and a 
pulley. If iron arms are fixed to the roof, as shown 
in Fig. 3, standing out about half a yard, the front 
lights will be screened as well as the roof. The 
blind should admit of being taken down in winter. 

The stages for the plants should be arranged 
with care; that in the centre is usually of solid brick 
work, and a water cistern may conveniently be 
within it, fed from the gutters of the roof, and 
with a tap for the use of the house. If this be 
large enough, it will usually supply water for all the 
house will contain. 

This entire stage should be finished at the top 
in steps, rising about six inches, the upper one be- 
ing wider than the rest, for the larger plants. The 



MKTHOD OF HEATING. 23 

stage under the front lights should be placed the 
average height of a pot below the lights, so that 
the rain may not circulate about the pots. I prefer 
all these stages of solid, not open work, for the 
same reason, though some people do not — let them 
be of slate, stone or brick. Round the front and 
ends, a shelf about eight inches wide, and placed 
about six inches below the rafters, is very import- 
ant ; and another similar one along the back wall, 
pretty high up, is often useful. 

II. METHOD OF HEATIISTG. 

Of the various methods of heating Green-houses, 
hot water circulating in large pipes is undoubtedly 
the best, but it is very expensive to erect in a safe 
and substantial manner — costing for a small house, 
almost as much as the buildings; nor do I consider 
it economical of fuel. The ordinary flue of brick, 
if well planned and constructed, is sufficient for com- 
mon purposes, taking care to have a close fitting 
door, both to the ash-hole and fire-hole, with a ven- 
tilator in the former, which can be entirely closed, 
or opened to any extent, and so, by directing the 
amount of draught, the temperature of the house 
may be regulated to the degree required ; and this, 
when by a little experience, the habit of the fire is 



24 THE GH'-EN-HOUSE AS A WINTER GARDEX, 

understood, will be found eas}^ Small coal or slack 
well damped will always be sufficient, and by push- 
ing the hot cinders with a long bent poker, to 
the back of the fire bars, and feeding it in front, it 
w^ill burn with little smoke, and a fire so banked up 
will last, untended, for many hours. 

A thermometer in the house, placed so as not 
to be affected by the sun's rays, is essential ; and 
a day and night register is very desirable. 

III. POTTING-HOUSE. 

The amateur will find a small house or shed, 
where the necessary potting, &c., can be done in all 
weathers, very important. It should be placed, if 
possible, behind the Green-house, so that a door 
may open from the one to the other. In the plan 
Fig. 3, is shown how this may be done by extend- 
ing the back slope of the roof with a slate roof, and 
the end of the potting-house being filled with glass 
uniform with the Green-house, a not unsightly 
arrangement results. If the fire be placed in the 
potting-house, with a supply of coal, the necessary 
attendance in bad weather is much less irksome, 
and there will be heat enough to keep the frost out 
of the potting-house, so that bulbs and other plants 
that are dormant in winter may be kept there. 



FilAMES AND PITS. 25 

There should be bins provided in which the vari- 
ous soils, &c., may be kept, so as to be available in all 
weathers ; also shelves on which a store of pots of 
all sizes may be placed ; and t may here be noted 
that all pots which have been used should be 
washed before they are put by, especially inside, 
otherwise the roots of the next plant grown in them 
will be very apt to adhere to the pots, rendering it 
impossible to turn out the ball without breaking it. 

Various small utensils will be required, as pot- 
ting trowels, dibbling sticks of various sizes, bell 
glasses, etc., and, on a substantial bench, with a good 
light, a large wooden potting-tray, in which the 
composts can be mixed and the potting done in a 
cleanly manner. 

IV. FRAMES AND PITS. 

I have now described the buildings requisite for 
Green-house culture; still if there can be con- 
veniently added a common cucumber-frame, or still 
better a tan-pit, a more complete establishment will 
be formed. If both these be provided, it will be all 
I consider that need be desired. 

The cucumber-frame is usually made square, a 
very inconvenient form, as the central part is diffi- 
cult to reach ; instead of 6 feet by 6 feet, let it be 



26 TUE GREEN-HOUSE AS A WINTER GARDEN. 

8 feet by 5 feet. The dung hot-bed used with it is 
sufficient for striking cuttings and raising seeds in 
spring, but as the heat Lasts only for a short time, it 
is necessary to renew it by linings of fresh manure. 
Later in the summer and autumn it will be useful 
as a cold frame. 

The tan-pit, when well constructed, is a most 
valuable adjunct, serving much of the purpose of a 
forcing-house ; it should be large enough to contain 
at least two good cart-loads of tanner's spent bark, 
a less quantity does not take an effective heat. It 
should have brick sides and bottom, and be effectu- 
ally drained, as any wet, settling in it, prevents its 
heating. The tan, if brought fresh from the tan- 
ner's tank, is sufficiently moist, but if it has lain 
some days, it will be necessary to add water before 
putting it into the pit. Let the pit be of such a 
form that all parts can be conveniently reached, 
and it may be from two to three feet above ground, 
the rest below. Some tanners use sumach, or other 
ingredients, the effect of which is that the tan 
never takes any heat, and is quite useless, but if 
you get proper tan and put it in in February, or 
early in March, it will take a good heat in a month 
or less, and sink down so as to afford room for the 
pots. This heat will last, with little variation, 



SOILS AND COMl'OSTS. 29 

throughout the summer, and even, in some degree, 
into the winter. 

I have found great convenience in having the 
lights, both of the frame and tan-pit, made in half 
lengths, the one sliding over the other, as is shown 
in Fig 5. If this be done, air may be given at top 
and bottom at the same time, nor do the lights when 
open extend so inconveniently over a wide space 
of ground as is the case with the single light. It 
will be noticed that by putting a strip of wood or 
fillet under the upper edge of the top lights, space 
is obtained for the lower one to slide completely up. 

The upper light is two inches wider than the 
lower one, and runs in a separate rabbet. 

V. SOILS AKD COMPOSTS. 

The basis of the soil for all plants, excepting 
those requiring pure peat, is loam ; hazel-colored 
loam, as the gardeners express it ; this is obtained 
from the top-spit of good turf land; that having a 
mass of fibrous roots is preferred. Lay it in a heap, 
in the compost corner of the garden, and when the 
grass is dead it is fit for use, the roots remaining in 
the shape of fibre. This will soon be the case in 
the inside of the heap, though it may continue to 
live on the outside. Break it up in the potting 



30 THE GREEN-HOUSE AS A WINTER GARDEN. 

tray, but do not sift it; pick out the stones and 
coarse, hard lumps, and look carefully for any wire- 
worms or other insect vermin. After a few years 
the root fibre decays, when a fresh heap should be 
prepared ; therefore, it is useless to stow away too 
much at once. 

Peat is obtained from hilly ground* where ling 
grows ; that taken from the wet bottoms is more 
properly called bog, and should be avoided. Good 
peat is full of fibrous roots, and is of a rich pui-ple 
color — bog, or exhausted peat, is black ; the same 
change may be observed to take place in the pots. 
If good, it contains sufficient sand ; if not, some 
must be added. 

I have found it much better and cheaper, when 
the consumption is not very large, to buy it from 
the London nurserymen ; a few bushels of Wimble- 
don peat will go a long way, and if kept dry in the 
potfcing-house will not materially deteriorate. 

Sand should be sharp, clean, and of a light color. 
I have been accustomed, lately, to procure this 
also from the London houses. Eeigate sand will 
save much trouble in striking cuttings, and after it 
has served that purpose it may be used for mixing 



* Note.— As there is no ling or heath in the United States, it is sug- 
gested that leaf-mould from the woods might supply the place of the 
peat of Bnr ope, —[Editor. 



S:"ilLS AND OOrPOSTS. 31 

in the composts ; the instructions given for the 
quantity to be used for the diflferent plants is ne- 
cessarily yague, since much depends upon the qual- 
ity of the other ingredients. It is needed only to 
insure porousness of the mass, and is in itself an 
evil, as it occupies room and affords no nourish- 
ment. 

Kotted manure, either horse or cow-dung, will be 
needed, but it may be thoroughly rotted down till 
it becomes a black friable mould. 

I have sometimes obtained a very useful ingre- 
dient for composts from the tops of pollard trees, 
where parasitical plants have grown and left their 
detritus, until a rich vegetable soil has accumulated, 
containing abundance of the root-fibre, which, by 
preventing the soil in pots from caking into a hard 
mass, is so valuable to the floriculturist. 

Some of the so-called peat which is sold at the 
door, cut into square pieces for burning, contains a 
very efficient vegetable fibre, the root being always 
preferable to the top. But, if nothing else is to be 
had, the rough fibrous part of peat must be used 
for the composts hereinafter directed. 

Charcoal, broken to the size of hazel nuts or 
smaller, is used with advantage in the compost for 
almost all plants. It is supposed to give richness. 



32 THE GREEN-nOrSE AS A WINTER GARDEN. 

to tlie colors of flowers, and it is surprising how 
the roots will cling to it. 

It is a mistake to suppose that the compost 
should be moist when ready for use ; it is much 
more convenient for potting when in a dry state, 
but care must be taken to water sufficiently after 
potting. 

Under the head of each plant in the list, 
are given instructions for mixing the suitable com- 
posts, carefully collected from the best authorities, 
supplemented by my own experience ; but there is 
ample room for experiment and progress, conducted 
with judgment and caution. Many of the most suc- 
cessful cultivators differ widely in the composts they 
recommend for the same plant, and it should ever 
be borne in mind that plants in pots are in an arti- 
ficial state, and it is by no means certain that their 
native soil is the best for them, in this artificial 
state. 

VI. POTTING. 

As all plants in pots are in an artificial state, 
they must be treated accordingly. Plants in the 
ground throw out their roots as far as they like, 
and seek suitable nourishment; those in pots must 
find it close at home, and they wind their roots 
round the sides of the pot, forming in a short time 



POTTING. 33 

a ball of matted roots. It is this compression of the 
roots in the pot that causes plants, so cultivated, to 
bloom when of a smaller size, and more freely, 
than in their natural state, and causes also the 
growth of the plants to be more stinted, and their 
blooms smaller. The most skilful cultivator, there- 
fore, must never hope to produce green-house 
plants which will bear comparison with those in 
their native liabitat; all ho can do is to try to 
approach it. It will bo evident from this that it is 
not desinxble to re-pot plants into larger pots too- 
frequently ; young, vigorously growing plants re« 
quire sucli change at least once every year, some- 
times even more than once; but it seems to be 
decided by the best authorities that old established 
plants, in a healthy state, may remain in the same 
pots for several years, not only without suffering, 
but with advantage, though this does not apply to 
all kinds of plants. The inconvenience of the 
large pots, with which the house is apt to get filled, 
has probably something to do with this opinion. 

The most careful attention having been given to 
the mixing of the compost, the next thing is thor- 
ough drainage. Too much care cannot be taken in 
this matter; for if there be stagnation of wet in the 
pot the health of the plant is inevitably sacrificed. 
3 



34 THE GREEN-HOUSE AS A WINTER GARDEN. 

After covering the hole at the bottom of the pot 
with a piece of broken crock, that does not lie 
close, so as not to prevent the water passing, 
throw in other smaller pieces to near an inch in 
depth, and over this place a layer of moss, or the 
coarser fibres from the vegetable soil, in such 
manner that the soil may not be washed down 
among tlie crocks and stop the drainage. Turn 
the ball ont of the old pot carefnlly by inverting it 
and rapping the edge against the bench, rnb away as 
much of the soil as yon can, Avithont damaging 
the roots, put as much soil in the pot as will raise 
the top of the ball nearly to a level with the rim, 
and then holding the plant upright fill round the 
ball. A flat strip of wood will somewhat aid this 
part of the process, as it is very important that no 
cavities be left unfilled. A rap of the bottom of 
the pot on the bench will shake it down, and 
watering settle all iii its place. 

The pot used in repotting should never be so 
much larger thaii the old one as to admit of more 
than one inch of soil round the ball, as the fresh 
groAvth of root will run immediately to the side of 
the pot, and the intermediate soil remain unoccu- 
pied. 



DISEASES OF PLANTS. 35 

VII. DISEASES OF PLANTS. 

Green-house plants are liable to be infested by 
the aphis or green fly, especially in the spring 
months ; the only remedy I have found effective, is 
tobacco smoke. Take coarse waste tobacco from 
the manufactory, or tobacco paper used in pressing 
the tobacco, if it be well saturated with the juice, 
which much that is sold is not ; break it up into 
pieces and damp it so that it will burn smouldering 
but not blazing ; get an iron pot about nine inches 
high and six inches across, elevated a little on feet 
and perforated with holes in the bottom, and a 
larger hole at the bottom of the side where the bel- 
lows may be applied if necessary ; cover the bottom 
with red hot cinders from the grate, shake out 
any dust or ashes, and throw on that a handful or 
two of small lumps of charcoal; then put on it 
the tol)acco, and fill up the pot with damp moss or 
fine grass, plucked from the lawn ; place it on the 
floor about the centre of the house, and start it if 
necessary with the bellows; if the amount of fire be 
proportioned to the dampness of the tobacco, it 
will burn out slowly without blazing till all is gone. 

An evening free from much wind should be 
chosen, and if it be raining all the better, as the rain 
will close the openings of the laps in the glass. Every 



36 THE GEEEN-HOUSE AS A WINTER GARDEN. 

aperture should he carefully shut, and if it is thor- 
oughly done the house Avill look as white as an egg 
from the outside, and you will not be able to see 
across it. It should not be opened again till 
morning. 

It is well to repeat the operation two evenings in 
succession, using a smaller dose the second time ; 
this will destroy those insects which were able to 
survive the first application. 

Some recommend the use of saltpetre in damping 
the tobacco, and this no doubt causes it to burn more 
freely, but I do not consider it necessary, if a rea- 
sonable degree of pains be taken, and there can be 
no doubt that the effluvia given ojff by saltpetre is 
more or less injurious to all plants. 

Mildew attacks some plants ; it is easily cured by 
dusting fine powdered sulphur over and under the 
leaves and on the stems, either with a fine dredger, 
or better, by flinging it from a camel-hairbrush — a 
repetition of it may be necessary. 

Worms in the pots, though not a disease, may 
come under this head. They do much mischief by 
appropriating the vegetable matter of the soil, and 
leaving in their casts a very adhesive refuse, which 
soon converts the soil in the pot to a sodden mass, 
so that all proper drainage is prevented. 



WATERING. 37 

Their presence will be discovered hj worm casts 
on tlie surface, and on turning out the ball they 
may usually be found next the side of the pot, and 
so be readily removed. Sometimes they will come 
to the surface on tapping the side of the pot ; but 
if these methods fail, use the clear water of quick- 
lime. 

YIII. WATERING. 

Rain-water is the best for all plants, and if that 
from the roof be carefully saved within the house, 
it is all that can be desired, as it will generally be 
of the same temperature as the house ; plants are 
often injured by being watered with cold water. If 
rain should fall soon after the roof has been painted 
and before the paint is dry, it will poison the water 
so as to be injurious to the plants, and the use of it 
must then be avoided. 

I need not further enlarge upon the necessity of 
careful drainage, after what has been said under the 
head of potting ; on its success more than on any- 
thing, depends the health and life of the plants ; and 
if that be neglected, watering becomes a great diffi- 
culty, but if that be attended to, it is perfectly easy. 
You must never be content with any general water- 
ing of the plants ; but examine each one separately, 
and water none but such as require it, and, when 



•"38 THE GREEN-HOl'SE AS A WINTER GARDEN. 

yon do water, give enough to wet the ball all through 
and the surplus ^yill run off through the drainage. 
The ladies' plan of giving a little water every day is 
most fatal to plants, the result being that the sur- 
face is kept moist, w^hile the active roots which are 
below get no water, and the plant dwindles and dies. 

It will be asked when does a plant require water? 
I ansW'Cr, when the ball is dry, and it should on no 
account be left dry till the plant droops. Experi- 
ence alone will entirely master this difficulty, if 
the directions given above be followed. It is certain 
that if the surface of the soil is moist, no water is 
required ; if it be dry, a tap on the side of the pot 
with the k]]uckle will generally be answered by a 
solid or hollow^ sound, indicating that the ball is 
moist or dry ; sometimes the weight of the-pot to 
one accustomed to their management, is a sufficient 
guide, and the same experience will soon establish a 
o^eneral knowledsre of the individual wants of the 
plants, according to the weather, to their more or 
less active state, and the amount of firing which has 
been used. 

After all, it may not un frequently be necessary to 
turn the plant out of the pot to ascertain its con- 
dition, an error either way being much to be depre- 
cated, especially iu winter culture. If a plant be 



STRIKING ( I TTI.NGS. 39 

continually moist when, being in an active state, it 
might be supposed to want water, it will be most 
commonly found that, owing to worms, or some 
other cause, the drainage is iiiiperfect. 

Plants in peat, or even in a large proportion of 
fibrous vegetable soil, will, if they have become 
thoroughly dry, at first reject the water like a dry 
sponge ; this state is indicated by the water run- 
ning through almost as soon as it is given at top, 
none in fact being absorbed ; in such case either 
plunge the pot in a bucket of water or let it stand 
with a pan full of water under it twenty-four 
hours. 

I believe this little difficulty to be the reason why 
it is commonly thought that Heaths, Epacris and 
such plants, are difficult to cultivate, but this being 
mastered, I consider no class of plants more de- 
sirable for the amateui-'s winter house, especially as 
they are entirely free from the aphis and other 
Oreen-house diseases. 

IX. STRIKING CUTTINGS. 

As a general rule, cuttings strike ' more freely if 
taken from the lower part of the plants near the 
roots. Let them be of the last growth, with an eye 
at the base, and never very long. I should almost 
say the shorter the better. Some cultivators say this 



40 THE GREEN-HOUSE AS A WINTER GARDEN. 

eye is better of tlie growth of the previous year, the 
rest of the cutting being of new wood. I believe it 
is so in some kinds of plants, not in all. Let the 
-amateur experiment for himself ; cut off the cut- 
ting clean at the base, with a sharp knife, not 
scissors, it being most important not to bruise the 
cutting ; all leaves on the lower part should like- 
wise be removed carefully with a sharp knife, 
taking care not to injure the bark. 

The surest plan with all cuttings, is to plant 
them in clean sand, laid about one inch tliick over 
the soil suitable to the plants in hand : use a wide- 
mouthed pot or seed-pan, and having prepared 
the cuttings as directed, moisten the sand so as to 
give it sufficient consistency ; take a dibble with the 
end cut off square, and make the holes for the cut- 
tings as near as possible to the depth of the sand, 
but not through it ; place the cutting in the hole 
^nd press the sand round it till it stands firmly in 
its place, bearing in mind that the important point 
is, that the base of the cutting rest firmly on sand. 
If a pointed dibble is used, there is inevitably a 
cavity between the base of the cutting and the sand, 
which is sure to interfere with success. 

When the pan is filled with cuttings, water care- 
fully with a fine syringe, to settle the sand firmly 



STHIKINU C; TTINGS. 41 

down ; ^ bell glass should then cover the whole; no 
cutting should touch another or the side of the 
glass. Bottom-heat will aid the striking of all cut- 
tings if a hot-bed or tan-pit be available, though 
many of the hardier kinds will succeed without. 

Bell-glasses should not be so flat at top as to 
allow the drops condensing from evaporation to 
fall upon the cuttings ; they should run down the 
sides, and the glasses be taken off every day and 
wiped dry inside, any excess of moisture being 
injurious. 

The object of this arrangement will be readily un- 
derstood; it is that the cuttings should have suffi- 
cient moisture about them to sustain life until they 
make their own roots, and so provide their own 
nourishment, the sand allowing all sui-plus moist- 
ure, which would tend to decay, to pass off, and 
the soil necessary for their support being within 
reach as soon as they can make use of it. 

The cutting-pans should be carefully shaded from 
the sun, and as even a temperature as possible se- 
cured ; they will occasionally require watering with 
a fine syringe, as will be known by the sand feeling 
loose to the finger, and not consistent; after water- 
ing leave the glass off for a short time, so that what 



42 THE GREEK-HOUSE AS A WINTER GARDEN. 

falls Oil the tops of the cuttings may di*}; up, but 
avoid exposing them long enough to droop. 

When the cuttings have taken root they will be- 
gin to grow, and should then be potted into thumb 
pots, and replaced in the temperature they were 
struck in, and then gradually hardened to tlieir 
natural exposure. 

In striking cuttings Avithout bell-glasses or bottom- 
heat, of such plants as geraniums, chrysanthemums, 
&c., place the cuttings close to the sides of the pot, 
in a compost of one-half their proper soil and one- 
half sand, press the soil firmly to the cuttings, wa- 
ter slightly, and place them in the shade ; they will 
not strike so surely, or so soon, as under the treat- 
ment previously directed, but it may sometimes be 
more convenient to adopt this plan. 

X. SOWIKG SEEDS. 

As a general rule, seeds which ripen before mid- 
summer should be sown immediately, as there is 
then time enough to produce plants to bloom the 
next winter or early spring season ; seeds ripened 
or obtained later than that, had better be reserved 
till the following spring. There are exceptions, 
which will be noticed under the head of individual 
plants. 



SOWING SEEDS. 43 

New seed is preferable in almost all cases — there 
are some exceptions, however, to this rule also, in 
the case of semi-double flowered plants, which will 
be mentioned in the proper place. 

It is a great fault to sow seeds too deeply — the 
slightest possible covering is sufficient for small 
seeds, increasing it as they increase in size. In some 
cases it is even desirable not to cover the seeds at all, 
but sow them on the surface and lay a flat piece of 
glass over the rim of the pot, taking off the glass 
when the seeds begin to grow. 

The soil should always be firm and light, and for 
a covering firm sand is successfully used. Water 
slightly, with a fine syringe, after sowing, and from 
time to time as may be needful to keep tlie soil 
damp but never wet. As soon as they begin to grow 
place them near the glass that they may not be 
drawn to dwindling plants ; they will require very 
careful watching in all their stages. As soon as 
they show their second leaves, or can be handled, 
prick them off each an inch or so apart, mostly 
close to the sides of the pot, and if available, give 
them bottom heat for a week or ten days. As soon 
as the plants touch one another pot them singly into 
thumb pots, repeating the bottom heat, and when 
the roots are matted to the sides of the pots, re-pot 



44 THE GREEN-HOUSE AS A WINTER GARDEN. 

them into larger pots, and harden them gradually to 
their natural temperature. 

In all the early stages of seedling plants, shading 
from the sun heat, if powerful, must be provided ; a 
piece of paper over the pots is a convenient plan, 
taking care that it does not touch the plants. 

XI. GE:N"ERAL MAl^AGEMEKT OF THE GEEEN- 
HOUSE. 

Early in September the season of the winter gar- 
den may be said to commence ; later than that it is 
not desirable to leave the plants out of doors. Let 
the house be well cleaned, the walls whitewashed, and 
it is my custom to give the wood-work inside a coat 
of paint every year. Clean out the water-cistern^ 
that there may be no foul smell ; see that the heat- 
ing apparatus is in working order, and everything 
so cared for that no repairs be needed in the winter. 

Let the pots be well cleaned, the balls turned out, 
to ascertain that all are in a healthy state, and all 
dead wood or leaves be removed. The surface soil 
should be scraped off as far as can be done without 
injuring the roots, and a top dressing of the proper 
compost supplied. Any weak herbaceous plants or 
straggling branches should be tied up, that all may 
look neat, and every plant stand over its own pot. 



GKNERAL MANAGEMENT OF THE GREEN-IIOUSE. 45 

Look well that no hidden snail or other vermin 
get into the house, and if the green fly be on any of 
the plants, apply tobacco smoke as directed. 

The plants must not be crowded together — a free 
circulation of air around each is indispensable. 
Cleanliness is highly important, so that no impure- 
air arise from dirty places, damp leaves, or decaying 
flowers. 

All surplus water running from the pots should 
be taken up with a sponge, as well as that from con- 
densation on the glass. No dwelling room needs to 
be sweeter than the Green-house if it be desired ta 
see the plants thrive. 

In placing the plants upon the stages, judgment 
must be used, to give as far as possible an equal 
share of light to each, rather more to the feebler 
than the stronger plants; and although the taller 
ones will naturally be placed at the back of the cen- 
tre stage, and shorter ones in front, do not for the 
sake of appearance put feeble plants behind. All 
should be within reach, and shou-ldbe turned round 
from time to time, that all sides may have the bene- 
fit of the indispensable light. 

Herbaceous plants must be placed as near the 
glass as possible, till they are in flower, as otherwise 



46 THE GREEN-HOUSE AS A WINTER GARDEN. 

the stems will grow weak. The projecting frame 
(Fig. 3) is the best place for them. 

If the directions given have been attended to in 
their proper season, spring will now be commencing 
in the Green-house, as winter l^egins in the gar- 
den ; and to the manager of his own Green -house it 
is, I think, the most interesting time of the year — 
the replacing of the loss of the natural summer by 
an artificial one — although it be but a humble imi- 
tation; and the object, in the management of the 
house, should be to encourage bloom by placing the 
plants in circumstances similar to summer, the sea- 
son of natural bloom, and therefore though artificial 
heat is always an evil, it is under these circumstan- 
ces a necessary evil. 

When the plants are first housed after passing all 
the summer out of doors, they will show a tendency 
to droop, and as much ventilation day and night 
must be given as can safely Ije done ; but cross-cur- 
rents of air must be avoided, and if the front and 
roof lights are slightly opened, the doors must be 
closed. 

If the weather be sunny, as it often is, no fire will 
be required, the sun-heat being sure to raise the 
temperature sufficiently in the day, and any slight 
frost which may occur at night will be guarded 



GENERAL MANAGEMENT OK TUE GUEEN-HOUSE. 47 

against by early closing ; bnt a succession of damp, 
gloomy days must be coimteracted by a little fire in 
the day time, with the lights open, taking care that 
the fire is out and the flue cooled down by the time 
it becomes necessary to close the house; too high a 
temperature at night is injurious. 

As the winter advances, let the temperature main- 
tained be not under 40 at night, nor over 50 or 55 
in the day, and though it may raise higher by sun- 
heat, it should never rise higher by artificial heat, 
always bearing in mind that air must be admitted 
on every favorable occasion. 

Chrysanthemums will be first in bloom, and 
though they are better grow^n out of doors, where 
climate and situation permit, yet a few small plants 
grown as directed will be valuable in the house, since 
they fill an interval of bloom, as no other plant will. 
They may stand on the floor or other places, even 
if they cause a little crowding for a short time, and 
be removed to the cold frame when their bloom is 
over, requiring but little attention till the spring. 

Next will follow Primula, Cineraria, Epacris, Cy- 
tisus, Azalea, Camellia, and other plants named in 
the following list, keeping up a succession of bloom 
until the garden flowers resume their beauty in 
June. The Geranium I consider the last of the list. 



48 THE GUEE.V-HOLSE AS A WINTER GARDEN. 

These directions need little variation throughout 
the winter. As spring advances air should be given 
more abundantly, to prepare the plants for full ex- 
posure out of doors in the summer months, leaving 
the lights open at night, when it can be safely done. 

Early in June the weather generally admits of 
the whole being removed to their summer station ; 
some hardier ones may have been put out earlier. 
The general repotting of the plants at this time, 
which forms so important a feature in the directions 
given in many books, will be superseded by the pro- 
gressive attention given to them, as directed under 
the head of each kind of plant. 

XII. SUMMER STATION. 

The choice of the summer stai ion, where the 
plants may have full exposure during the months 
of June, July and August, is a very important 
matter; on it success will very much depend; 
scarcely any winter-blooming G-reen-house plant 
will thrive without it. I lay down what I consider 
the conditions to be aimed at; let them be ap- 
proached as nearly as circumstances will admit. It 
should be exposed to about half the day's sunshine, 
the morning part being preferable ; well sheltered 
from boisterous winds, which blow the plants down 



, SUMMER STATION. 49 

or break them ; there should be room enough for 
the plants to stand well apart, that the air may cir- 
culate freely around them ; every pot should stand 
level, so that it may be freely watered without its 
running over, and upon a floor of asphaltum, brick, 
stone, or fine coal ashes and lime, well beaten down, 
otherwise Avorms will get into the pots, and the 
roots will run out at the bottom and take hold of 
the ground, thus causing a severe check to the 
plants when they are moved. 

In default of a permanent arrangement for the 
floor of the summer station, tiles or slates may be 
laid down and propped to a level surface. 

Some careful cultivators prop slates or tile 
against the sides of the pots to protect them from 
the heat of the sun, it being an evil to the roots, 
though a great benefit to the tops. 

Careful watching w^ill be needed, that the plants 
do not suffer from want of water, as, being in an 
active and growing state, much will be required; 
frequently more than one soaking a day will be 
needed, and even in rainy w^eather a bushy plant 
will get but little water to the soil. If any get too 
much soaked with rain they may be laid down on 
their sides for twenty-four hours or more without 
serious injury. It may be desirable to tie up tall 



50 THE GKEEN-IIOLSE AS A WINTER GARDEN. 

plants to sticks, stuck in the ground, to prevent 
their being blown OA^er. In warm evenings syringe 
them well overhead or use a watering pot with a 
fine rose. Some prunings of rampnnt growth may 
occasionally be necessary, and dead leaves and 
insects must be removed. 

XIII. SUMMER OCCUPATION OF THE GREEN- 
HOUSE. 

When the proper occupants of the Green-house are 
removed to their summer station, the house may be 
filled with annuals, of which Balsams will form the 
principal and a very beautiful feature. If good 
seeds be procured, and they are grown as directed 
into fine branching plants, twenty or thirty of them 
will fill a small Green-house with a splendor not 
easily surpassed. Some of the hot-house Ipomeas 
(I. cerulea, &c.) may be added, running up strings 
fastened in festoons to the roof, also cockscomb, 
amaranthus, &c. 

If the tan-pit be in operation, much more may 
be done, as many hot-house plants which are dor- 
mant in winter may be cultivated, the Green-house 
being used as a hot-house in summer, and this class 
of plants started in the tan -pit. Of these. Gloxi- 
nias, one of the most beautiful exotics we have, is 



1L(J\VKK MIOWS. 51 

perfectly available, and may be groAvn in great per- 
fection. Achimenes, Martynia, and many others 
may be added. 

The house, as before said, mnst now be treated as 
a hot-house. The plants will require an abundance 
of water and almost constant shading in the day. 
It must be closed early to secure a temperature 
through the night proportioned to that in the day, 
firing not being, in this case, needed. Syringe 
overhead, as much as possible without injuring the 
bloom, when the house is closed at night, and 
water the stages and floor. If the house have the 
full morning sun, the curator must be stirring early, 
or the temperature will l)e raised to too high a point 
before the air is given. 

XIV. FLOWER SHOWS. 

Let the amateur bcAvare of being tempted to grow 
plants for exhibition at flower-shows. When great 
success has been attained it is a temptation to dis- 
play that success ; but it will be found to involve a 
terrible sacrifice. Professed growers usually giving 
their attention to a few kinds of plants, and having 
various costly appliances to enable them to attain 
excellence, become the opponents of the amateur 
with his small establishment, and it will be found 



52 THE GREEN-HOUSE AS A WINTER GARDEN. 

necessary to sacrifice the bulk of the collection for 
the sake of a few favored specimens, and the honor 
of taking a few prizes will be a yer}^ inadequate 
recompense. 

A- little experience will satisfy the amateur that 
it is not an easy thing to prepare and keep plants 
so as to be fit for exhibition on a certain day ; then 
the plants for the sake of which all the others have 
sufi'ered, become themselves much injured by the 
carriage and exposure ; and the result is a depre- 
ciation of the whole collection which a year will 
scarcely restore. 

Until managers of exhibitions contrive to classify 
the specimens with gome reference to the means of 
exhibitors, and this is not easy, flower-shows must 
be avoided by the amateur who manages his own 
■Green-house. 



A LIST OF PLA:N^TS 

Suitable for the Green-house as a Winter 

Garden, with their soils and mode of 

culture, and the names of some 

desirable varieties. 

Acacia. 

Armata. (hinninghcuni. Prostrata. 

Soil, two parts loam, oue vegetable fibre, one sand. 

There is not much variety in the flower, though 
there is in the foliage, one or two plants are 
deisrable ; they are very easily cultivated, but not 
easy to be grown into handsome pyramidal plants ; 
their growth is apt to be wild and straggling, but 
they bloom freely and early in the year. As soon 
as they begin to grow after bloom is over, cut back 
the long shoots, leaving two or three eyes of the 
last growth, and having regard to the form of 
the plant; the pyramidal being always aimed at, 
shorten the leader well back. When a decided 
growth is starting after pruning, repot, but avoid 
increasing the size of the pot as much as possible, 
or the plants will soon get too large for the house. 
They grow very rapidly, and it is desirable to get 
them out of the warm Green-house as soon as 
possil)le, lest they make weak wood. 



64 THE GREEN-HOUSE AS A WINTER GARDEN. 

Azalea Indica. 

Oledstanesii. Danielsiana. Vainegata. Alha 
Xutescens, and the Old Alha for its delicious scent. 

Soil, two parts peat, one loam and sand, one 
rotted manure. 

One of the most beautiful plants we have, and 
with ordinary care it grows into fine specimens. 
Some growers use a stronger soil than I have 
given, and if larger and wilder growing plants are 
desirable, they are right, but for a small establish- 
ment it is better rather to check than encourage 
the size of the plants. They, in common Avith all 
plants that grow in a large proportion of peat, 
require much water as the flower buds swell and 
while blooming. The new growth shows itself 
often before the bloom is over. They do not re- 
quire much pruning, just enough to keep the 
plant shapely. Repot as soon as the bloom is 
over, if the new growth be started ; and keep them 
in the warm house till the general clearing out, in 
June. 

CACTUS. 

Speciosissimus. Achermannii. Crenatus. 
Soil, three parts sandy loam, one part charcoal, 
^nd pot- sherds broken to the size of hazel nuts. 



A LIST OF PLANTS, AC 55- 

A beautiful plant in bloom; very unsigbtly when 
not in bloom. It is almost dormant in the autumn 
and early winter months, and should be kept cool 
and almost without water till it shows signs of 
growth. When started the growth is rapid and 
requires abundant watering till the bloom is over, 
and it must be freely encouraged till the next 
growth is made. I do not consider many of them 
desirable, but they are easily managed. No prun- 
ing is necessary. 

In their dormant state the shelf in the potting 
house is the best place. 

CALCEOLARIA. 

Soil, two parts loam, one part rotted manure, 
and one of coarse vegetable fibre or peat and sand — a 
very open compost being desirable. 

This plant, owing to the hybrid culture it has 
received, has become nearly an annual ; that is to 
say it is almost necessary to raise them every year 
from seeds ; cuttings may be struck fiom very suc- 
cessful varieties, but, according to my experience, 
with difficulty and doubtful result. 

Seed should be sown as soon as it is ripe, and on 
the surface of the seed-pan, not covered at all, but 
with a flat plate of glass laid over the rim of the 



56 THE GREJEX-IIOUSE AS A WIXTEU GARDEN. 

pan and the pan placed in a Avarm part of the house 
near the glass or in the pit of the pan. As soon as it 
is up, fine sand should be sprinkled over it and a 
bell-glass substituted for the flat plate. In all its 
stages just enough water must be given to promote 
growth, but not enough to cause the plants to damp 
off, and as soon as possible give some air daily. 

The plants should be fit to pot into thumb-pots^ 
and get established in them before winter, giving- 
them a little close treatment after the change, and 
in these pots they had better remain till early in 
the spring, when a disposition to active growth will 
appear, and they may be potted into blooming- 
pots about four and a half inch ; after this keep 
them as near the glass as possible, water in pro- 
portion to the capacity of their state, and guard 
against the aphis by tobacco smoke. 

CAMELLIA. 

Double Wliite and Red. Lady Hume. Celestina. 
Eclii)se. 

Soil — One part loam, one part sand, one part 
vegetable fibre, and one part rotted manure. 

Very various are the instructions of different 
writers for the treatment of this plant, as regards the 
compost and all other points of management. All 



A LIST OF PLANTS, JtC. 57 

agree tluit it is very liardy and easily managed. 
I must candidly confess that it is the only plant 
with which I have not attained satisfactory success. 
The compost I have directed appears to me the most 
hopeful. It readily makes its growth under the 
treatment directed for the winter garden, and readily 
sets its buds, hut when it ought to Idoom, the buds 
are apt to fall off. 

It is perhaps the most beautiful winter-blooming 
plant we have, and is worthy the utmost care to in- 
sure success, but it must take its chance with its 
companions in a mixed Green-house. No doubt it 
is very important to have healthy plants to begin 
with, and this is easily ascertained by turning them 
out of the pot before they are purchased ; if there be 
not healthy roots outside the ball reject them. 
Water them according to their state of activity ; 
freely when growing or opening their blooms, other- 
wise sparingly, but do not let them get dry so as 
to droop. They must be repotted soon after they 
begin to grow and the bloom is over, and any strag- 
ling branches shortened; but usually little pruning 
is needed. 

5 



58 THE GREEN-HOUSE AS A WINTER GARDEN. 

CHOROZEMA. 

Varia. llicifolia. Rhomhea. Nana. 

Soil — Two parts peat, one part loam, taking care 
there is sufficient sand. 

A very pleasing, lialf-climbing plant; some of 
them may be grown as shrubbery plants, but they 
are more usually trained to a trellis. If it be at- 
tempted to grow them without training, the growth^ 
which will start freely after blooming, must be 
checked by stopping the ends of the shoots. Eepot 
them when the new growth is fairly started. In 
common with all plants whose compost consists 
largely of peat, they require mucli attention in wa- 
tering. If they be allowed to get quite dry, and it 
be not perceived, when they are watered, that the 
water all runs tlirough, a day or two will kill the 
plant. 

CHRYSAKTHEMUM. 

The varieties are endless. The pompons are per- 
haps the most eligible for the Green-house, as they 
make more bushy plants, and the flowers are very 
valuable for bouquets. 

Soil — three parts loam, one part sand. 

Small plants for the Green-house may be raised 
by taking the ends of the long shoots in June or 



A LIST OF I'LANTS, AC. 59 

July, and placing them in sand under glass, if con- 
venient, if not, put them round the sides of the pot 
and in a shady place. If a number of i^lants be re- 
quired for any festive decoration, layer the ends of 
the long shoots in pots, plunged around tlie parent 
plant. 

When rooted, pot them singly into small pots, and 
a,s soon as they will bear it, bring them to the light. 
One other shift into five-inch pots will be sufficient 
and they will be ready to go into the house with the 
other plants in September. As soon as the bloom is 
over, cut them back, and put them in the cold frame, 
or plunge them in a sheltered place. They must be 
attended to in the spring, so as to encourage the 
growth in time for next year's cuttings, which is 
best done by planting them out in the ground, and 
if they are wanted for the borders they may be put 
there and tlie cuttings taken at the time directed. 

By taking the cuttings from the ends of the 
long shoots, more bushy plants are produced than 
f the shorter shoots are taken from the lower part 
of the plants. 

CIN"ERA.RIA. 

Soil, two parts loam, one part vegetable fibre, 
one part rotted manure, and sand added. 



60 . THE GREEE.V-nOUSE AS A WIN'TER GARDEN. 

One of the most valuable plants for Winte rdeco- 
ration ; easy of culture, sure of success and with an 
almost endless variety of bloom, Like the Calceo- 
laria, it is now most usual to grow them every year 
from seed. Gather the seed as it ripens, choosing 
the best flowers, and sow it very slightly covered 
as soon as you get it — though, if a hot bed or tan-pit 
be in preparation, wait for that — if kept just moist 
and shaded it soon comes up ; and the plants, as 
soon as they can be handled, may either be pricked 
off into seed-pans, or large pots, two inches apart 
each way, or put at once singly into thumb-pots ; 
shade them till they start, giving a little heat if 
available. Through the summer they should be 
grown in a cold frame, the pots plunged in sand or 
ashes. Shift them twice, finally into five-inch pots. 

Be watchful for the Aphis, to which the plant is 
peculiarly liable. Tobacco smoke must be applied, 
but in a frame it requires care not to scorch the 
plants. Shade them from the mid-day sun, and shut 
the frame close or nearly so at night. I consider it 
desirable to rub off from time to time all the shoots 
but the centre one with a blunt pointed stick, 
and of course it must be done with care, as a much 
handsomer plant is the result, and much earlier 
bloom. If it be desired to propagate any variety, 



A LIST OF PLANTS, AC. 61 

it is easily done by taking the young shoots from 
the roots, which make their appearance soon after 
the old blooming stem is cut away, and often earlier. 
If their off-shoots be not rooted, as they generally 
are, they must be struck in cuttings ; if rooted, put 
them into thumb-pots. In either case give them a 
little heat, or close treatment, and keep them as 
above directed with the seedlings, in the cold frame 
through the summer. 

If this culture be successfully carried out, there 
may be any desired number of these beautiful 
plants, in health and luxuriance, ready to take their 
place in the winter garden. They will begin to 
bloom by Christmas, or even before, and continue 
till May or June. 

As soon as the bloom of any plant is over, cut it 
back, if it be wished to save cuttings, and put it 
in any corner among the other pots, but not too 
much shaded. Water but sparingly till fresh growth 
starts from the roots. Any not desired for propa- 
gation may be at once thrown away ; they are use- 
less for the borders. 

COKKEA. 

Alba. Pulchella. Speciosia. Rosea. 

Soil — Two parts peat, one part loam, one sand. 

5* 



62 THE GREEN-HOUSE AS A WINTER GARDEN. 

This plant requires a treatment similar to the 
Chorozema. It is not one of the most eligible, but 
it forms a pleasing variety in a winter-blooming 
collection. Stop the free growing shoots, to promote 
a bushy habit, and do not repot too freely. It will 
bear in all respects the general treatment directed. 

COROKILLA. 

Glmica. Valentina. 

Soil — Two parts loam, one vegetable fibre, one 
sand. 

A pretty yellow flower, rather too free a grower ; 
it l)looms early in the year and is useful for the 
winter garden, though not one of the most eligible. 
It bears very free pruning after the bloom is over, 
and indeed requires it, the growth being inclined to 
be straggling ; two eyes in the last growth are enough 
to leave, and in some cases it may even be cut back 
into that of the previous year. Kepot as soon as the 
new growth is started, but avoid increasing the size 
of the pots more than is necessary. With vigorous 
plants the ball may be reduced by picking away the 
old soil with a pointed stick, and even cutting off 
some of the longer roots. It will bear putting out 
of doors early. 



A LIST OF PLANTS, AC. 68 

CTTISUS. 

Racemosa. Rliododjm^i ne. 

Soil — Two parts loam, one vegetable fibre, one 
sand. 

Like the last subject, a wild grower, and requires 
similar treatment. Flowers yellow, with all the 
sweetness of the wild broom and very abundant. 
It is valuable as a free winter-blooming plant. 

DAPHNE. 

Indica. Odora. 

Soil — Tavo parts loam, one part peat, taking care 
there is sufficient sand. Some growers add a little 
rotted manure; but I doubt the wdsdom of this. 

No flower can be more valuable ; if the plant can 
be kept in a reasonably symmetrical form, it is beau- 
tiful and has an exquisite scent ; it is, however, very 
difficult to do so. With old plants grown to long, 
bare stems, it is hopeless to do anything ; but if 
young ones be carefully treated, they may be tolera- 
ted for a few years. Sometimes it will answer to cut 
them back within a few inches of the crown of the 
root ; but sometimes they will not break again. It 
is always safe to cut them back to an eye or two of 
the last growth, and if not too much stimulated, 
they'will break freely from those eyes. Too rapid a 



f54 THE GREEN-HOUSE AS A WINTER GARDEN. 

growth is the thing to be feared, for that causes the 
long bare stems. Get them out of doors or in a cold 
frame as soon as possible, and keep them out as 
long as can safely be done. But with all possible 
care it will probably be necessary to tie them to 
props, and even then they will very likely be soon 
discarded. Of course, no pruning must be done 
till after the bloom is over, as it always comes at 
the ends of the shoots. 

DIOSMA. 

Umbellata, Fragrans. Ericoides. 

Soil — three parts peat, one part loam. 

A very charming evergreen heath-like shrub, 
with an aromatic, and to some people, most agree- 
able scent from the foliage ; very valuable as green 
for a bouquet, though of late much neglected. It 
grows luxuriantly into a fine bushy plant, and con- 
tinues flowering throughout the early spring, though 
the flowers are insignificant. It may be pruned al- 
most at will into any form, after blooming, and 
must not be over-potted. 

EPACKIS. 

Wilmareana. VariaUlis. Impressa. Miniata. 
Grandiflora. Campanulata rubra. 
Soil — peat, with sufficient sand. 



A LIST OF PLANTS, AC. 65 

Some growers recommend a small addition of 
loam, but I doubt the propriety of this. • 

One of the most valuable of the winter-bloom- 
ing i)lants, sometimes called the Australian heath, 
and in most respects similar to the heath. The 
tubular-shaped flowers are of considerable variety, 
and make a very elegant admixture with others, 
either in tlie house or in a bou(piet. If it has made 
a free growth after the previous bloom, and the 
wood is matured, a fine bloom is safe for the suc- 
ceeding season. It requires abundant watering 
when coming to bloom, and plenty of light, and 
starts its growth freely afterwards, but sometimes 
needs a little close treatment in the cold frame to 
encourage luxuriance. Cut back freely after the 
bloom is over, but never beyond the wood or the 
last growth ; re-pot as soon as it breaks, and put 
them into the cold frame as soon as is safe ; that 
is a little before the other plants go to the summer 
station ; they are better plunged in sand or ashes. 
Close the lights early in the evening, and shade 
from the hot mid-day sun, in a few weeks more 
then to the summer station. 

Grandiflora, Miniata, and some others of similar 
habits, are difficult to grow without training to a 
trellis, but most of them will, with care, make 
bushy plants. 



66 THE GREEN-IIOUSE AS A WINTER GARDEN. 

GERAN'IUM. 

Tarieties endless. Soil — two parts loam, one 
part rotted manure, one part vegetable fibre, one 
part sand. 

The beauty and value of this plant, with its 
immense variety, is known to every one; nothing 
is more easily cultivated, but more convenient 
plants for a small collection may be produced by 
careful attention, than are usually grown. It is 
desirable to have young- plants every two, or at 
least, every three years, and they strike so easily 
from cuttings that this may be done with little 
labor. They require but a very reasonable share 
of attention in the house, and are almost the 
latest bloomers in the winter collection. Put them 
back freely when the bloom is over, and as the time 
for moving the collection out of doors will be at 
hand, do not wait for the few last straggling flow- 
ers ; they may even be cut into the old wood par- 
tially^, and the tops used for striking plants for the 
borders, or new plants for the collection. They 
will strike freely under the bell-glass in sand, or 
w^ithout, but in the latter case of course not so 
soon. Young plants will not be fit to take their 
place in the collection the first season, but may be 
kept in small pots and placed among the others out 



A LIST OF I'LANTS, AC. 67 

of the way. The next spring the}^ should be cut 
back to within a few eyes of the soil, re-potted as 
soon as they start, and subjected to the general 
treatment. The second season they will replace 
the old ones, which may be discarded. The Gera- 
nium loves free pot-room, and on this plan you can 
afford to give it. If old plants be kept longer than 
I have indicated, the balls may be pared down to 
keep them in more convenient sized pots, but they 
will never be so satisfactory as young i)lants. 

HEATHS. 

Hyemalis, Gracilis. Flammea, Wilmereana and 
others. 

Soil — Peat and sand. 

Be watchful that the drainage is efficient, never 
neglect watering when the plant requires it, and 
give as much air as possible, do not crowd them 
with other plants. Half a dozen Heaths, judiciously 
selected can hardly be dispensed with, in the small- 
est collection. If they be not crowded or watering 
neglected, both of which faults cause base or 
" rustxf stems, they will grow and improve for many 
years. Young plants require re-potting every year, 
but old ones have been known to do well in the 
same pot for three or four years, not of course 



68 THE GREEN-IIOUSE AS A WINTER GARDEN. 

making much growth; but that is not needed. 
Unless the growth be unusually rampant, little 
pruning is required beyond cutting back such 
shoots as interfere with a good form of plants, 
and this may always be safely done if you keep 
within the last growth. The heath is so elegant 
a plant that it is worth a little extra trouble if in- 
deed it requires it; and if the directious, given 
under the head "Watering," be attended to, I do not 
think it will be found more troublesome than other 
plants. 

Ke-pot, if needed, when the fresh growth has 
started, and put the plants out of doors, as early as 
is safe. 

JASMIKE. 

GrancUfloncm. Hirsutum, 

Soil — one part loam, one part vegetable fibre, one 
part rotted manure. 

Except for their exquisite fragrance, these are 
not desirable plants ; their growth is awkward and 
uncontrollable ; they require no unusual care; prune 
them freely and do not stimulate the growth. 

KENNEDYA. 

I?iop7iyUa. Monopliylla. Eximia. 

Soil — three parts peat, one part loam and sand. 



A LIST OK PLANTS, AC. 69 

A very cliarmiug climbing plant; must be 
trained; a most abundant bloomer, and in every 
respect very desirable. It makes luxuriant growth, 
and must be pruned accordingly, Avlien the bloom 
is over. The difficulty is to keep it within com- 
pass, either in the top or roots. Young plants may 
be readily raised, either from cuttings or layers. It 
requires abundant watering when in bloom, for, if 
in good health, it bears very numerous trusses of 
flowers, and is as beautiful as any plant in the 
winter collection. It must not be put out of the 
house till it has started its fresh growth. 

MAGI^OLIA. 

The Chinese species and their hybrids, Fuscatay 

Soulangiana, Conspiciia. 

Soil — two parts peat, one part loam and sand. 

Treatment the same as the Camellia. I have not 
had much success with this plant, and do not 
strongly recommend it. Soulangiana when well 
grown and bloomed is fine ; but I have found it 
difficult to treat in both respects. It does not bear 
any comparison Avith the American species, either 
in size of flower or richness of foliage. The more 
out-door treatment it gets the better. 



70 THE GREEN-HOUSE AS A WINTER GARDEN. 

MIGNONETTE. 

Soil — two parts loam, one part rotted manure, 
one part sand. 

For winter bloom, a few plants are desirable ; but 
though it is easy to grow them with a few stunted 
flowers, it is not easy to grow them well. 

If it be desired to rear it as a single plant, 
trained in the form of a tree, the seeds should be 
sown in June, in thumb-pots, three or four seeds 
in each, and when they are fairly up remove all but 
one ; re-pot this, from time to time, up to the size of 
about a five-inch pot, keeping it in a shady place, 
and pinching off the blooms as soon as they appear; 
if the growth is not luxuriant enough, use liquid 
manure or guano : water once a week, and at all 
times avoid over watering — indeed, in heavy rains, 
the plants should be sheltered. In this manner 
fine large plants may be grown, and as soon as the 
Green-house plants are housed they may be allowed 
to bloom, and will continue to do so all through 
the winter. 

If you are content with smaller plants and less 
trouble, sow the seed in August, in the pots it is 
intended they should bloom in, and when up, thin 
out to three or four plants, and treat them in the 
same manner as above directed. This plant always 
succeeds best if transplanting be avoided. 



A LIST OF PLANTS, AC. 71 

MYRTLE. 

Single. Double. JVarroiv -leaved. Broad-leaved. 

Soil — One-half loam, one-lialf vegetable fibre and 
sand. 

Thougli not properly a winter flowering plant, 
yet it will gradually accommodate itself to the tem- 
perature of the house, and blossom early in spring, 
and surely no more beautiful plant can be grown ; 
its habit is good and its foliage charming. It re- 
quires very little pruning ; what is cut for bou- 
quets, if judiciously done, will probably be enough. 
The difficulty is to avoid getting them into pots 
so large as to be inconvenient ; avoid, therefore, 
increasing the size as much as possible, and though 
young plants will require repotting every year, 
older ones may be kept two years in the same pot, 
even if the growth become somewhat stunted. It 
is nearly hardy, and may be put out of doors early, 
and if disposed to blossom after this, pinch off the 
blossom buds. 

ORAKGE. 

Soil — Two parts loam, one part rotted manure, 
one part vegetable fibre — sand if needed. 

A fine evergreen plant, not easy to rear in good 
form and habit ; but with some trouble, the scent 



72 THE GREEX-nOUSE AS A WINTER GARDEX. 

of the flower, as every one knows, is exquisite, and 
the fruit forms a handsome feature in a winter 
group. It requires perfect drainage, abundant wa- 
ter when iu active growth, and occasionally liquid 
manure, and syringing overhead. Pruning must 
be done with judgment, as by cutting away the 
young growth you lose the blossom of next season ; 
still this must be done to some extent, if the plant 
makes one-sided and awkward growth. It must be 
repotted if full of roots, and if the ball feel dry and 
hard, soak it first. Unfortunately the results of 
successful treatment ^nll probably be, that the 
plant will get too large for the house. 

OKAXGE, OTAHEITE. 

A dwarf species, rather recently introduced ; it 
is compact in habit and does not grow more than 
eighteen inches in height ; it is not so handsome 
in foliage as the common orange, but has the same 
sweet scent, and is more manageable as a Green- 
house plant, and very desirable. It requires the 
same treatment. 

PIMELIA. 

Intermedia. Linifolia. Rosea. Spectahilis. 
Soil — Three parts peat, one part loam, sand and 
charcoal. 

A very pleasing evergreen shrub ; requires a 



A LIST OF PLANTS, &C. '73 

treatment similar to the Epacris, careful drainage, 
and watering. It must be cut back after bloom- 
ing, but not beyond the wood of the last growth, 
and repotted as soon as a fresh growth is started, 
and unless it be very luxuriant it should have the 
shelter of the cold frame for a few weeks before it 
is removed to the summer station. 

POLYGALA. 

OppositifoUa. Grandiflora. Gracilis. 

Soil — three parts peat, one part loam and sand. 

A pretty pea-shaped flower, but rather a wild 
grower, in other respects easily managed ; it is a free 
bloomer, and comes early in the year. Cut back 
freely into the last growth, and even into the older 
wood partially ; use as few props as possible, but 
some will be needed, as the shoots are apt to be 
weak ; abundance of air is the best corrective, but 
it will not bear to be exposed out of doors too 
early. 

PKIMULA. 

Sinensis, single and douUe, pinTc and white. Cor- 
tusoides. Nivalis. Verticillata. Farinosa, &c» 
Soil— two parts vegetable fibre, using the rougher 

part with charcoal and sand ; a very open compost 

being desirable. 

6* 



74 THE GREEN-HOUSE AS A WINTER GARDEN. 

The fringed varieties of tlie pink and white sin- 
gle sinensis, are most eligible plants for winter 
culture. Sow the seed early in June, on a slight 
heat, if available ; if not, in a warm corner of the 
Green-house, covered with a flat piece of glass. 
Prick out the plants singly in thumb-pots, as soon 
as they can be handled, and give them a little close 
treatment, till they are rooted ; after that keep them 
in the cold frame with the cinerarias, &c., potting 
them up into five-inch pots as they need it. They 
are free growing, beautiful plants, and will bloom 
throughout the winter and spring with ordinary 
attention ; nothing more fully rewarding the care 
of the cultivator. If any unusually fine flowers 
should appear, they may be propagated by cuttings 
in sand under a bell glass ; but it is better to grow 
the stock every year from seed ; the seed is usually 
sold mixed, white and pink ; they may be distin- 
guished, almost as soon as they come up, by the 
color of the stems. 

The double varieties, though much sought after, 
are not, I think, comparable to the single richly 
fringed ones, and they can only be propagated by 
cuttings, which is difficult, and uncertain in result, 
Though both this and the single one are perennials, 
they require for Green-house culture to be treated 



A LIST OF PLANTS, <feC. 75 

as annuals. The other varieties named are treated 
as perennials, though they may be propagated freely 
by division of the roots. They are a pretty class of 
plants, but not very showy or remarkable. 

ROSE. 

The perpetual varieties are preferred. 

Soil — two parts loam, one part rotted manure, 
one part vegetable fibre and sand. 

There are no roses that bloom naturally in the 
winter or very early spring ; indeed, it is indispu- 
tably a summer flower ; still by skilful management 
a few blooms may be had, and they are very valuable. 

All I can give is a few general hints. Let them 
be always on their own stocks, not budded ; do not 
force them too rapidly ; I have found that the same 
plants answer three or four years in succession, bet- 
ter than fresh ones. When the plants are turned 
out of the house, plunge the roses in some open 
part of the garden, and keep them stopped back 
throughout the summer, that they may not bloom; 
take them up in August, repot them and place 
them in the cold frame ; if a successful growth be 
then started, they will bloom early in the house. 

Some cultivators take up plants, of the perpetual 
varieties, out of the borders, after their first bloom 
is over, and pot them for winter bloom with success. 



*76 THE GREEN-HOUSE AS A WINTER GARDEN, 

SOLLYA. 

Heteropylla. AngustifoUa. 

Soil — Two parts peat, one part loam and sand. 

A pretty, half-climbing evergreen, with a blue 
flower, a free grower and easily managed, but will 
not do without some support. It must be pruned 
fi-eely after the bloom is oyer, and though not na- 
turally a very early bloomer, it will in a year or 
two accommodate itself to the habit of the house. 
It must not be put out of doors too early, nor re- 
potted too freely. 

VEROKICA. 

Andersonii. Speciosa. Odor a. Scdisifolia. 

Soil — Three parts loam, one part vegetable fibre 
and sand. 

A very beautiful plant, not as generally cultivated 
as it ought to be. The kinds do not all bloom early 
enough for the winter garden, but a selection may 
be made, and in a year or two, under the treatment 
directed, they will bloom earlier. 

The first years of rearing them, cut them back 
freely and early, without regard to the bloom, but 
not into the old wood, so that they may start their 
growth before they are put out. Repot but spar- 
ingly. 



BULBOUS ROOTED PLANTS. 7*7 



BULBOUS ROOTED PLANTS. 

All these have, more or less, a season of rest, when 
watering or any other exciting conrse must be with- 
held, and their activity afterwards is in proportion 
to the degree of rest. Ample drainage is all im- 
portant, and the bulb must never be more than half 
covered with the soil. 

AMARYLLIS. 

Formosissima. Amahilis. Ignescens. SpedaUlis. 

Soil — One part peat, one part loam, one part 
vegetable fibre, and sand enough to secure a porous 
compost. 

This bulb requires absolute rest when the bloom 
and growth are completed ; the shelf in the potting- 
house is the place for it during that time, when it 
must be kept entirely without water. In the au- 
tumn, winter, or early spring, according to the 
habits and training of the bulb, it will show signs 
of activity, when it must be repotted, watered and 
removed to the Green-house. The growth will now 
be very rapid and an increasing amount of water 
will be continually required, until the resting time 
recurs. It is a verv beautiful flower, not diflBcult 



*78 THE GREEN-HOUSE AS A WINTER GARDEN. 

to manage, and blooms successfully. Off-shoots, if 
tliey appear, should be rubbed off carefully when 
the bulb goes to rest. 

CYCLAMEN". 

Per si cum Varieties. 

Soil — One part peat, one part loam, one part rot- 
ted manure, one part sand. 

This charming flower is cultivated with very 
various success. I have seen a window plant with 
ordinary care flourishing and bearing a hundred 
blooms, while those in a well ordered Green-house 
were dwindling and flowerless. It is said that some 
dealers propagate the plant by dividing the roots, 
in which case they will always be sickly plants ; 
this may be so, but probably the cause of failure lies 
in not attending to the alternate periods of activity 
^nd rest. About June, although the leaves may not 
be entirely gone, it will be found the activity of the 
plant has ceased ; it should then be j^laced in a 
sheltered situation where it will get no sun or rain, 
and be kept without water till it shows signs of 
growth about August or early in September; it 
must then be repotted, placed in the Green-house, 
and watered increasingly till it blooms and again 
rests. 



I5EI'DIN(, FLANT.S. 7^ 

OXALIS. 

Tricolor. Bowel. Speciosa. 
Soil — Two parts peat, one part loam, one part 
sand. 

Early in September they usually begin to start ; 
divide them, putting three or four tufts in each 
pot, water them well and put them in a sheltered 
part of the garden or airy part of the Green-house • 
in October they should be in active growth, showing 
bloom. They rest soon after April, when the cold 
frame or a good shelter will do ; water must be- 
gradually withheld. 



HYACINTHS, TULIPS, &c. 

A few of these, usually called Dutch bulbs, add 
to the gaiety of the house in spring, and its fra- 
grance also, though, as they require renewing every 
year, being only fit for the borders afterwards, I 
sometimes doubt their being worth the cost. A 
rich, open soil is needed ; some of the Harlaem 
growers use equal parts of rotted manure and sand, 
and it answers very well. Pot them as soon as. 



80 THE GREEX-nOUSE AS A WINTER GARDEN. 

you get them, sinking them slightly in the soil, 
and let them root in a shady place, or buried in 
sand or ashes, not exposed to rain. Take them 
into the house, when they are rooted and begin to 
grow, and w^ater freely. 

LILY OF THE VALLEY. 

For winter blooming, take matured roots, with 
well formed buds, in March, and having plunged 
six inch pots in a shady border, put six or eight in 
each pot, cover them well and let them grow 
through the summer, pinching off any blooms that 
they may throw up. In October they may be 
treated the same as the Dutch bulbs. The kind of 
soil is not very important ; loam and sand will do. 



BEDDING PLANTS. 

The green-house should furnish an ample supply 
of these valuable additions to the borders, and it 
may be done with comparatively little trouble and 
even gain to the winter show in the house. Pro- 
vide in the spring one or two young plants of each 
kind it is wished to have, put them with the plants 



BEDDING PLANTS, 81 

in the summer station, and keep the blooming 
shoots stopped off through the summer. In August 
pot them into larger pots and allow them to grow 
on and bloom, which they will then do more or 
less throughout the winter ; when they go into the 
house with the other plants put them on the upper 
shelf, as near the glass as may be. You may cut 
the blooms for bouquets, and in the spring there 
will be abundance of young shoots for cuttings. 
Watch against mildew and aphis, and do not over- 
water them. 

Early in March, or as soon as the hot-bed or tan- 
pit is ready, strike these cuttings in sand under 
bell-glasses, according to directions giyen. They 
will root in about three weeks, and may then be 
potted in thumb-pots, and after a few days close 
treatment, put them in the cold frame, plunged in 
sand or ashes, giving air according to circum- 
stances, but gradually increasing it, that they may 
be prepared for full exposure early in June. If no 
bottom-heats be available, the striking may be done 
in a sheltered corner of the Green-house. In any 
case, shade the glasses from the sun. I have grown 
as many as four hundred in one season in this 
way. 

7 



82 THE GREEN-HOUSK AS A WINTER GARDEN. 

The most useful kinds are : 

Verbenas, Scarlet Geraniums, dwarfs preferred, 
Salyia Fulgens, Patens and Patens Alba. Helio- 
tropes, Ageratum, Gazania. 

N. B. — Some of the Salvias rest in winter, and 
in that case watering must be decreased and finally 
withheld. 

When bedding out, save a plant or two, the 
strongest of each kind, for similar treatment the 
next season, pot them at once into large pots, stop 
them, and proceed as before. 

Ordinary soil will do for all these — loam and 
vegetable fibre with sand. For the plants to be 
kept through the winter, a little rotted manure 
may be added. 

Heliotropes are so valuable for winter blooms, 
that two or three additional plants may very well 
be provided for that purpose, treated in the same 
way; there are many varieties, some of which 
are of force more easily than others. 



ANNUALS FOR THE GRBEN-HOUSE IN SUMMER 



ANNUALS FOR THE GREEN-HOUSE IN 
SUMMER. 

Balsams, especially if the seed be three or four 
years old, as it should be, require bottom-heat to 
raise them. New seed does not produce stocky 
plants, or fine flowers. The soil can hardly be too 
rich, even if it be half manure, with loam and sand. 
Pot them as soon as they can be handled; keep 
them close and warm, with air only in the middle 
of sunny days, and repot them as soon as the 
roots begin to mat, which will be surprisingly soon. 
If they do well, give abundant water, and syringe 
occasionally overhead, but not in the sunshine. I 
do not see the necessity for the very numerous 
shifts some people talk of, but believe it does as well 
to shift them two or three sizes at once, and then 
by sinking them as low as possible in the pot, a 
piece of bare stem is buried, and the laterals 
brought nearer the rim of the pot. They must on 
no account be crowded together or they will grow 
lank stems, and without side branches. Pick off 
the first blossoms which show themselves on the 
main stem, and keep them freely growing; by July 



84 THE GREEN-HOUSE A8 A "WINTER GARDEN. 

or August they ought to be in eleven or twelve inch 
pots,, three feet high, two feet across, and with 
bloom showing at once, on the main stem and side 
branches. . Surely if they are of good quality they 
are a fine sight. Plenty of water and close treat- 
ment in the house will keep them growing and 
blooming till the Green-house plants come back to 
their home. 

In gathering seed for another year, choose, of 
course, the plants having the finest and most 
double flowers, and gather only the smallest pods, 
even those with only one small seed in them, for 
those will have come from the most double flowers ; 
for the quality of the flowers varies, not only in 
different plants grown from the same seed, but also 
in the same plant. 

Maktynia Fkagkans requires the same treat- 
ment with balsam; it is not nearly so eligible a plant, 
nor have I often seen it grown into a good form ; 
but it makes a little variety in the summer show. 

Cockscomb and Amaeanthus, make likewise a 
variety in the summer blooms, but are not particu- 
larly interesting. They require a common soil loam 
and sand, and make fine plants if raised early in a 
hot-bed. 



ANNUALS FOR THE GREEN-HOUSE IN SUMMER. 85 

Spomeas — The hot-house varieties require heat 
to raise them, a good rich soil, and plenty of pot 
room ; it is better to sow them two or three in a 
pot, and thin out, leaving only one ; they do not 
like transplanting. 

AchimeinTES ai^d Gloxinia I should not re- 
commend, unless a tan -pit be available. Achimenes 
are quite dormant in the winter, and may be kept 
dry on a shelf in the potting-house. As soon as there 
is a good heat in the pit, turn them out of their 
pots, and pick out as many of the finest tubers as 
are required, plant them in seed-pans — pots are un- 
necessarily deep — in loam and vegetable fibre, with a 
little sand and rotted manure, two or three inches 
apart, each way ; plunge them in the tan ; water 
slightly at first, increasing it as they grow, and re- 
move them into the Green-house with the summer 
annuals. They will probably require props, as it .is 
almost impossible to rear them with stems strong 
enough to carry the blooms. Gloxinias, for the most 
part, are likewise dormant in the winter, though it 
is, by many growers, thought better not to dry them 
off entirely, but any excess of moisture will cause 
them to decay. They like a very open soil, one-half 
loam and one-half vegetable fibre, and plenty of 



86 • THE GREEN-HOUSE AS A WINTER GARDEN. 

sand ; repot them when bottom-heat is ready, but 
do not shake bulbs out of the soil; remove the 
loose soil only, as far as it can be done without in- 
jury to the roots ; they like plenty of pot-room ; the 
bulb must be two-thirds above the soil ; water spar- 
ingly at first, increasing it, as growth proceeds. It 
is one of the most charming plants grown ; it is 
easily propagated from seed, when new varieties 
will be obtained, or from striking a leaf in sand ; in- 
deed I have struck the flower-stalk, thinking I 
should perpetuate one of those erect flowers which 
appear now and then, but the result was a pendant 
flower like the parent plant, and not like the stray 
flower I worked upon. 



